superchat new york: joseph quartana

© parfums quartana / photography: daniel lieb

the world of fragrance is an ambiguous place, it reminds us a bit of wine making. complicated terminology, bubbling vats of plant particles, micro-distillation and complexed potions far removed from anyone's basic understanding of a recipe. for some, it takes years to find the perfect scent, something that resonates on multiple levels, an aromatic representation of who we are. for others, fragrance is more perfunctory, used to mask the undesirable traces of our basic humanity. personally, it's always been a tough one for me. a game of numbers and a frequent survey of kitsch bottles lined up at department stores, spritzing away on paper strips  only to discover that one's sense of smell is probably the easiest to overwhelm, and fast. 

in the end, it was often back to a trusty deodorant stick and a sobering note to self: try to avoid suffocating on gallons of designer toxins next time. when we heard our friend joseph quartana had launched a new line of fragrances called parfums quartana, we pounced on the opportunity to flip the lid on the realm of redolence. quartana has an intriguing history in the fashion business. we met years ago when he was running seven new york, one of the only boutiques stateside at the time, that carried the more niche designer obscurity  think the likes of raf simons, bernhard willhelm, gareth pugh, and many others. he has also actively developed scents in collaboration with quite a few of our favourite designers over the years. 

so, we felt certain we'd found the right person to interrogate, and requested a boat load of quartana potions. packaged in modernist psychedelia and masterful blurbs full of exotic base notes, delirious over tones and poisonous sounding sources, to be honest, there wasn't one concoction we didn't respond to. some we loved on us, others we loved just for their bold personalities. what we found most curious was the seamless fusion of modernity and esoterism behind each elixir  all pleasantly, and at times, alarmingly intoxicating. we caught up with joseph quartana recently for drinks, a brief history of scent, his background in the fashion industry, and how it lead to a career as an olfactory maestro.

tell us a bit about your background, of course we already know you as the guy who ran former avant-garde fashion shrine seven new york. i accepted a scholarship to nyu in the early 1990s, more to live in downtown new york as i wanted to be there to eventually work in the music industry. but when i graduated, napster came along so suddenly, the music business became unattractive as there was no money to be made! at the time, i was dating a fashion designer, who i later married, so i was exposed to that world and fell in love with it, and decided i wanted to apply my study of economics to that field instead, and to handle the business side of things, i.e. buying. with seed money i earned from investing my parents' savings during the first internet boom, i started seven back in 1999, and directed it for thirteen years, focusing on the more cutting-edge side of the fashion world, as no one was really doing that in new york city at the time.  

what was it that drew you to fragrances, specifically given your leaning toward the obscure as a brand curator? by about 2007, i was getting bored with fashion as my boutique was 'humming' along, and the opportunity came up to develop a capsule fragrance collection. at the time i really knew nothing about the world of fragrance, other than that i liked it and considered a scent to be the finishing touch of my personal style. i thought it might be interesting to develop a series of fragrances with the edgy designers i had been working with at seven, namely guys like bernhard willhelm, jeremy scott, preen, gareth pugh, i.e. those designers influential enough in the industry that they should have a fragrance but not necessarily big enough that they could have a fragrance. by doing six at a time, we could reach factory minimums, hence six scents parfums was born. it was niche, and pretty obscure from the get go because these designers were still pretty unknown at the time, although now some are quite famous.

can you break down the science of creating a fragrance in layman's terms? the easiest way to look at it is by drawing an analogy to recording a song. you start with a vision. then you work out the notes, and those notes must harmonize like the hook in a good track. you have a progression, which is how it changes and evolves once it's unleashed, which should take the wearer somewhere.  and then you have a mix down where you work out the concentrations of the fragrance, specifically each note as they become 'louder' or 'softer', depending on the overall concentration of oil to alcohol, and which can be likened to mixing down an album in the studio where you are adjusting sound levels.  

© parfums quartana / photography: david uzzardi

what makes a scent good in your mind? achieving a harmony is a lot more difficult than it might seem! with some of the new fragrances, we went through literally 150 variations and it was two years before they began to 'sing'. but what really makes a scent good, is how it reacts to your particular skin. you see, every fragrance has top notes, what you smell in the first 30 minutes, heart notes, which is what it settles into for most of the duration, and then base notes, which is what it ultimately dries down to. but you, the wearer, are the magical fourth note and depending upon your diet, genetics, health, ph level, and even ethnicity, your skin is going to warp the fragrance a bit. i guarantee you, if you and i put on the same scent, it will smell a bit different on each of us. so, you have to find what works specifically for you.  

key us in on the main components of parfums quartana. the fragrances are certainly distinguished by a blend of hypnotic vs subtly narcotic. are you curating a mood with each or is it more cerebral? more of a mood, though there is a general feel that permeates the whole collection which acts as a common thread and then specific moods that apply to each, with each vastly different depending upon the folklore of each of the poison flowers which is where we took the bulk of our inspiration from. it's somewhat cerebral in as far as a fragrance can be; but i'd say they mainly appeal to the emotions, though how you interpret the scent and the emotions it conjures is what makes it cerebral.

with les potions fatales we did wish to conjure specific imagery in one's mind for each, and the short films that i'm making for each help to illustrate each direction, specifically the imaginary femme-fatale that symbolizes each, as we wished them to be deceptively beautiful but ultimately dark and sinister like a poison flower. and each [with the exception of digitalis which is fresh and sparkly and ozonic as that flower was used to conjure faeries] is quite dirty or boozy or narcotic; i kept telling the perfumers to think about gasoline, how it is sweet and alluring, but you know it is toxic.   

there is an obvious relationship between fragrance and fashion, how do you go about pairing the two? through the packaging. remember that fragrance is essentially invisible! and it's extremely challenging to communicate what it smells like through a computer monitor, even if you list out all the accords. so, the packaging is quite vital, much like the album cover art of a record; it gives you the first hint of where it's going.

can you elaborate on the artistry and visuals you used for the project? for les potions fatales, my art director aerosyn-lex mestrovic and I decided the scope was already dark so we didn't want to do a black colour scheme, and instead did something quite the opposite: bright colours. and to get them to pop and to make the point they are more 'evening-y' fragrances, we set those bright colours against a midnight blue backdrop. we opted for silver chrome to suggest the magic mirror from snow white which figured into the belladonna lore, and anyway i think gold as a metal is tacky and overused in perfumery. the swirly patterns started from the concept of aposematism which is when organisms signal they are toxic through bright colours and bold patterns on their skin.

think frogs, snakes, fish, insects, even skunks are an example of this, and aerosyn-lex abstracted them out through his paintings to suggest the hallucinations one gets from getting poisoned. the colours of each are not arbitrary by the way, i had people smell the fragrances without telling them anything about it, and asked what were the first three colours that come to mind, and where there was overlap those become the essential colours of each poison flower perfume, so they look like they smell. finally, there's a blue-amethyst inspired bottle safely contained in a 'metal' box, as the ancient greeks stored their poisons in that medium.  

from a market perspective, the fashion calendar is crammed with seasons, how does this apply to scent? it's one of the reasons i left the business, it's really too much these days! of course fragrances follow trend cycles too, but they are much longer, i'd say five to ten year cycles, whereas fashion is much, much faster, with yearly turnover. that said, chanel no. 5 is almost a 100 years old, and people still wear it. and viktor & rolf's flowerbomb, which is one of my favourite mainstream fragrances, is over ten years old and still going strong. also, some fragrances are more appropriate to the season, there are winter, spring, summer, and fall fragrances, so some people rotate through them. and then others, once they find their signature scent, never change it.  

do you plan on expanding into other areas with fragrance in the future? i'd like to introduce candles next, and then plan to reissue the best-sellers of six scents in 2017 at some point, but in updated packaging. eventually six scents series 5, as it's totally overdue. as for parfums quartana, i'm not sure yet which direction i'll take it in next.  

lastly, what's your favourite of the current parfums quartana collection? that's like asking someone which of their children is a favorite! honestly, i love them all and put an equal amount of time into rendering and perfecting each. i wouldn't have dared put my name on any one of them if I didn't think they couldn't be further improved. each one points in a vastly different direction, but is related to the others, so there's something for everyone: green, gourmand, super florals, white florals, fruity florals, dirty animalics, narcotic orientals, etc. personally, i have been wearing the lily of the valley in the warmer weather, and wolfsbane in the cooler months, but i really adore the smell of venetian belladonna and midnight datura on women; they make me a little crazy in fact.


© parfums quartana / photography: david uzzardi

berlin: jil sander store renewal

© andrea tognon architecture / photography: jan kapitän, büro bum bum

as if to honour its german roots, high-end fashion brand jil sander introduced its new retail design at the flagship store on the swanky kurfürstendamm thoroughfare in berlin. occupying a ground floor unit of a landmark structure built in 1900 with an ornate art nouveau façade, the new aesthetic, created by milan-based practice andrea tognan architecture, is almost defiantly modern and understated, and clearly extrapolates jil sander's clean designs. geometrical forms of the square and the rectangle largely define the premises, along with more fluent shapes that convey a zen-like sense of spatial harmony, and yet provide functionality at the same time.

the palette of the fixtures and furnishings comprises of a compatible range of materials, such as a range of meticulously made resins, marble varieties, and eulithe foam, that not only fuse tradition and innovation, but also aim to communicate a new and different kind of contemporary luxury. both the furnishings and fistures have a sculptural quality and add visual drama to the understated premises, most notably the brass bronze tables and cabinets, steel clothing racks, and an elaborate lighting installation that covers almost the entire ceiling. the new jil sander store stocks the brand's full range of men's and women's apparel, accessories, bags, shoes, eyewear and fragrances. location: kurfürstendamm 185 [charlottenburg].

© andrea tognon architecture / photography: jan kapitän, büro bum bum

hong kong: ami store opening

© i.t

the timeless silhouettes of alexandre mattiussi has hit a sensitive nerve among a demographic of fashion-conscious males, and although his ami label can already be found on the shelves of many a respectable store across the planet, the paris-based designer continues to expand his network of branded boutiques. following last year's opening of a boutique in tokyo – an event we talked about in a previous post – the designer has now struck a collab with luxury retailer i.t to set up shop in hong kong. the new ami outpost adds up to a cluster of stores that the company already operates at the location, but as a branded retail space it obviously distinguishes itself through ami's distinct design codes. in fact, the retail space follows the vintage-inspired design codes of the tokyo store, and which were once laid down by paris-based architecture practice studio ko, featuring a mosaic mirror wall backdrop, mirrored pillars, ornamented parquet flooring, brass fixtures throughout the premises, and all off-set by ceiling in dipped a dark blue shade. the new ami boutique carries the brand's full range of men's apparel, shoes and accessories. location: 53 paterson street [causeway bay].

© i.t

guayaquil: yu! hotel opening

© yu! hotels / photography: jag studio

it's safe to say that the democratization of travel in the modern age got a kick-start in the late 1970s with the airline deregulation act stateside. the transition of control over air travel shifting from the political to the market sphere has since then been adopted across the planet, and spurred on by new technology – think bigger or more fuel-efficient airplanes, and let's not forget the miracle that's called internet – it has hugely expanded both our travel range and options. but the travel bug also affects infrastructures equally far and wide, and has now even reached the sunny shores of ecuador.

contemporary budget hotels may have been all the rage for quite some time in europe, asia and across north america, but only recently did the first such property open in the country. situated in guayaquil, its biggest city, the so-called yu! hotels chain cleverly launched its first venue in las peñas, a scenic quarter with many historic buildings that draws in visitors by droves. local architect alfredo de león méndez designed a new structure from sustainable materials that takes full advantage of the modest plot of land, and it was constructed in such as way that all of the 20 rooms, spread over five floors, have a good view to the city, thorough ventilation, and plenty of natural light.

the rooms at yu! hotel measure just 15 sqm. [162 sq.ft.], but what it may lack in size, it surely makes up with the package of comfort and amenities that modern travellers expect these days, including a kingsize wall-to-wall bed, a bathroom with rainshower, a 32-inch led television, free wifi, and as said, air-conditioning. additional facilities at the hotel include a self-service snack bar, a meeting room and an upper balcony for the best views in the house. needless to say, this place arguably is the best option for budget travelers heading to this part of the world to explore its many treasures. location: avenida vicente rocafuerte 250 [las peñas].

© yu! hotels / photography: jag studio

milan: armani/privé club renewal

© armani

the name giorgio armani is synonymous to milan's reputation as a global fashion capital, and as the top creative honcho of his empire, he's undoubtedly put his stamp on the city. profusely acclaimed for his skills in fashion design, armani hasn't stopped there, and branched out with a growing number of hospitality venues across the globe. not surprisingly, he has bestowed his homebase milan with a number of sleekly designed downtown venues. one of those hospitality concepts combines the co-owned nobu restaurant, opened in 2000 and still a fave among well-heeled milanesi, with an adjacent club called armani/privé.

the latter venue has recently been given a thorough make-over by the designer and his team of architects, featuring a new interior design and configuration that makes it appear more spacious than its actual 640 sqm. [6,889 sq.ft.]. a new logo in the shape of a lit lantern discreetly beckons its patrons at the entrance, while a new and exclusive entrance around the corner on via manzoni has been created for v.i.p. guests. indoor access via nobu restaurant remains available. the club now boasts a lounge with a central bar and dance floor, in addition to a second, more intimate bar area. the chosen palette is monochromatic and sensual, comprising of tones of gold and bronze, captured by luxurious materials and sleek design.

two imposing bar counters dominate the space with backlit tops, covered with sleek bronze-finish brass, and the dance area has its own dj booth. sophisticated lighting contributes a great deal to the atmosphere, created largely by backlit wall panels that have been embellished by gold metallic mesh. the space is dotted with a compatible range of furniture pieces, including tables, again with backlit tops, contoured armchairs covered in gold leather and scatter cushions. the armani/privé club is open from september through june, and presenst a rotating schedule of both italian and international deejays that keep you entertained until the wee small hours. location: via gastone pisone 1 [duomo].

© armani

weil am rhein: rêveries urbaines

© vitra design museum

french fraternal duo ronan and erwan bouroullec belong to a select group of creatives that have helped shape the world of design during the past decade. following their exhibition album two years ago, they return to the vitra design museum in the south german village of weil am rhein for a new showcase. the new exhibition, entitled rêveries urbaines and held at the venue's zaha hadid fire station, presents concepts for urban development, and is a wide-ranging study of possible development solutions for cities that may be imagined in very different urban settings. like a large open sketchbook, the proposed solutions are presented as a gentle walk through models and animations.

the show is designed to be immersive and to bear the visitor away into different scenarios, with each model showcased as a chapter in an urban fiction, and features brothers' first projects that concentrate on public spaces. films and research models are arranged around twenty proposals that re-invent certain motifs for urban spaces: vines, torches, parasols, a fountain, a kiosk etc. the aim is to give a new sense of magic to the places where we walk, meet, and talk, by the use of lines, harmony and transparency. the installation is not only a collection of abstract ideas but also points to some of the ongoing projects the brothers are developing for several cities around the world [om through jan 22]. location: charles eames strasse 2, zaha hadid fire station [weil am rhein].



© vitra design museum

seoul: café sapoon sapoon opening

© betwin space design / photography: yong-joon choi

as the capital city of one of asia's most affluent nations, seoul has an already impressive lifestyle insfrastructure, but it continues to expand and diversify to cater to its savvy inhabitants' fast-changing preferences. one of the south korean company's which has closely followed the growth curve is kt&g, the country's largest tobacco company, and interestingly, it's also affiliated to manufacturers of traditional ginseng, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. it's the ginseng manufacturer, best known across the planet through its kweon-jang-chan brand, that has branched out to the hospitality segment by way of a design-led café that's specifially geared towards a young demographic.

called café sapoon sapoon – a play on the word saponin which also is an important ginseng ingredient – it's not accidental that the establishment has found a home on the ground floor of kt&g tower, a soaring office building in a leafy district of seoul. local interior practice betwin space design was enlisted to create a setting for the café that would fully reflect the brand's values, but also designed the building's loby area. café sapoon sapoon occupies a voluminous 221 sqm. [2,379 sq.ft.] space, and boasts a design that revolves around the focus on the elements of nature and lab to evoke the aforementioned design objective.

a giant rectangular canopy has been inserted into the space, replete with an intricate built-in light installation that's also trimmed with fluttering noren, as a nod to a traditional wooden structure that provides shade and coolness in a ginseng field. directly below, two large concrete communal tables are situated, decorated with potted plants that further heighten the sense of rural surrounds. smaller seating arrangements surround the setting, and the use of a variety of carefully selected design chairs. a large part of the furnishings are wood-based, adding an eclectic yet warm touch. the slightly sloping terrace, semi-shielded from bustling yeongdong-daero by lush greenery, is a seamless extension of the aesthetic inside.

spacious and offering similarly inviting seating arrangements, it easily lures customers to sit outside when weather permits. sitting at the far end is a counter and service station, decorated by filigrain dark timber, and here's where the lab element of the design concept kicks in. subtly incorporated in elaborate steel shelving is an installation that fills bottles with cold brew ginseng coffee – mind you, ginseng is the main ingredient of café sapoon sapoon's many capuccino offerings. other than coffee options, the menu also features fresh juices, detox drinks, a wide selection of herbal teas, cakes and ice creams. location: kt&g tower, 416 yeongdong-daero, ground floor [daechi].

© betwin space design / photography: yong-joon choi

rome: hermès store opening

© hermès

the history of hermès in italy dates back to the 1950s, but it wasn't until twenty years later that the first franchise stores opened in the country. fast forward to 2016, and the luxury brand raises its profile in the capital rome with a new flagship, in the downtown area of tridente. it's actually the third store incarnation in the city, but this one is by far the most prestigious. it has found a home at the so-called palazzetto arconati-negroni-caffarelli, an ornate mansion built in the late 16th century, and a structure that simply oozes history. at 630 sqm. [6,781 sq.ft.], set across a series of inter-linked rooms, the retail space is as such that it easily accomodates hermès' elaborate range of  products.

upon entering through one of two doors, either side of the arched portal, from the left into men’s silks, with a full spectrum of ties. the men’s section, to the right, offers ready-to-wear, belts, hats, bags, briefcases  and shoes, all in a setting of cherry wood furnishings and walls in lacquered boiserie. adding up to the exclusive men's domain is a special men's lounge replete with exclusive products, such as leather footballs made in the colours of local soccer teams lazio and roma. the sumptuousness of the interior is further defined by floors in hermès' classic faubourg pattern and a stretch of calacatta marble finished with the fashion house's 'ex libris' insignia in stainless steel.

also to be found on the ground floor are sections for watches, jewellery, the iconic silk scarves and fragrances. at the back of the store a room full of bags is situated, furnished with a specially designed sofa and coffee tables that allow shoppers to sit back and take in the exquisite hermès craftsmanship in a comfortable fashion. another room presents accessories, small leather goods and more bags, as well as the full equestrian collection. it's here where a staircase leads upstairs, opening out onto a glazed canopy, and lures mesmerized shoppers upstairs to explore more of the flagship. a series of intimate rooms unfold, furnished with specially designed pieces.

it's here where the collections of women's ready-to-wear, accessories, hats, belts and shoes are presented against a backdrop of walls clad in an luxurious mix of textile and mineral, achieved through layers of pigment which has been engraved, sanded and polished to achieve subtle but deep colour tones. two other spaces showcase the home collection of furniture pieces, textiles, fabrics and wallpaper, porcelain, crystal, in addition to  where a complete universe includes furniture and textiles, fabrics and wallpaper, porcelain and crystal, in addition to accessories for sports and leisure. also on this floor is a homey library, replete with carpet and comfy seating. especially for the store opening, dutch artist noa verhofstad has created a series of store windows, inspired by the equestrian worlds of both paris and rome. location: via bocca di leone 23 [tridente].

© hermès

global: h&m x kenzo ad campaign

© hennes & mauritz / jean-paul goude – chance the rapper

it's only two more weeks until hennes & mauritz's latest designer collab collection with kenzo drops in a select number of its stores across the planet, but the global hype and anticipation is already in full swing. we should applaud the swedish retailer for taking on paris-based visual wizzard jean-paul goude [1940] to create the collection's ad campaign, and clearly, he hasn't lost his golden touch. in a similar iconic style of cut-up transparencies with which he immortalized cult songstress and then girlfriend grace jones in the early 1980s, he has shot the new h&m x kenzo ad campaign. the fashion brand has cleverly recruited a number of well-known faces as brand ambassadors, including former model iman, musician ryuichi sakamoto, actresses rosario dawson and chloe sevigny, rapper suboi, environmental activist xiuhtezcatl martinez, and chance the rapper. shown here are three shots of the ad campaign that we particularly like.

© hennes & mauritz / jean-paul goude – chloe sevigny and ryuichi sakamoto

los angeles: études studio pop-up store

© études studio

études studio loves to go places and interact with its global fanbase, and following temporary retail spaces in new york city, seoul, tokyo and paris, the multi-disciplinary brand has opened an outpost on the u.s. west coast. situated on the premises of the museum of contemporary art's very own store, the pop-up venue comprises of an understated setting created by branding and architecture practice savvy that's defined by sleek metal shelving, a clothing rack, and wall panels that depict both visual and textual brand messages. so, what's in stock? first and foremost, a curated selection of études studio's a/w 2016 collection and a current range of books. additionally, an exclusive tote and t-shirt especially made for the moca store can be purchased. both items are based on the notion of dérives, an act of wandering and letting ideas flow as one takes in familiar and new sites [open through jan 8]. location: moca, 250 south grand avenue [downtown].

© études studio