Indian cuisine is a cornerstone of British culinary culture. For years the subtleties of the subcontinent were lost with redux imitations exemplified by the tikka masala believed to have its roots in the U.K. (and voted the nation’s favourite dish on several occasions). In recent years, London has exploded with restaurant concepts that shine a spotlight on the staggering diversity of the nation from Iranian influences in Mumbai to brunch spots dedicated to the biriyani. Ooty is an exciting opening that invites dinners to take an alternative journey into Indian cuisine. Named after a remote hill station in Tamil Nadu, Udhagamandalam a.k.a. Ooty, the Ooty dining venue promises a creative exploration of South Indian cuisine. In place of heaving bowls of rice ’n spice are elegant plates of experimental flavours – expect the unexpected. For starters, alongside novelties like the paneer ‘lasagne’ served with a pineapple foam you’ll need some guidance through the menu with lesser known delicacies like scallops with puy lentil cashew nut koshimbir and rasam tubes or the tapioca chicken poppers with chili pipette. Mains include culture collisions like the eggplant and (more unusual) goat cheese couscous, the truffled morel mushroom puff pastry and the Tellicherry pepper duck with olive upma and toddy jus. The desserts are a mic-drop finale with toadstool-shaped chocolate ganache nesting in a bed of chocolate ‘soil’ or the fennel chocolate mousse with raspberry gel. The decor itself is throughly London. Plush velveteen seats and teal leather banquettes are tastefully off-set by William Morris-esque wallpaper placements, referencing the Victorian British Raj. It exudes a glamour without the ‘curry house’ theme party theatrics. Service is attentive but not relentless, making for a fine-dining-lite experience without the pomp. Casual mid-week dining this is not, an accessible treat for adventurous tastebuds this is.
Ooty
66 Baker Street
London W1U 7DL
Telephone: +44 20 37275014
Mon-Thu 12-2.30 and 6-10.30
Fri 12-2.30 and 6-11
Sat 12-3 and 6-11
Publishers Note
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