reviews

  • flour & grape

    london: flour & grape

    Now we’ve gotten over our unreasonable complex with ‘carbs’ (so 00’s) there is something of a pasta Renaissance taking place in London. For a best-in-class example, set your CityMapper to Flour & Grape in village-esque Bermondsey. Everything is made on-site from scratch meaning you’re in for an extra punch of fresh flavour and ambrosial aromas as you walk through the doors. The menu is short and sweet with a selection of small plates and curated pasta dishes. Flour - tick, but as the name implies it’s also a fantastic spot for discovering new Italian wines and most dishes come with a recommended pairing. Also, if you feel like digressing, here’s a place to try the retro yet recently resurged Lambrusco... For starters don’t skip the crisp endive with salty gorgonzola with pear, the molten burrata with prosciutto braciotto and the homemade ricotta with beetroot. For pasta you can do no wrong with dense caserecce paired with savoury tomato, capers and basil ; tortellini generously stuffed with roasted pork shoulder and tagliolini in butter emulsion, preserved truffle, cured egg yolk. The portions are satisfying without the all too often unwelcome bloat. Close off with a creamy gelato, rich chocolate bundino or palette-cleansingly clementine sorbetto. The ambience is spot on with the lighting low, music off and just the jovial chitter chatter of other dinners. With a ‘first date’ to our left and a post-xmas pals catch up on our right this is a great excuse for any meet’n’eat.

    10 january 2018 by becky
  • yen

    london: yen

    come to worship the excellent fare at this new soba shrine.

    08 january 2018 by andreas
  • wahaca test kitchen

    london: wahaca test kitchen

    What started as an independent take on Mexican food 10 years ago has spun into a mini empire across the UK and Europe. Thomasina Miers immersion into Mexican cuisine and passion for the nation’s extraordinary diversity of flavours has helped re-educate the British palette beyond ‘fajitas’ and ‘tequila slammers’. The next chapter for Wahaca is the Test Kitchen, an experimental space to trial new dishes, subtle flavour tweaks and new approaches to plating up. The menu is a mix of Wahaca favourites, brand new dishes and variations on classics - with British ingredients throughout. It’s also a response to the diverse landscape of eaters from vegan (cashew nut mole) to gluten free (corn tortillas). On the tasters and snacks menu are the Mexico City Nachos, an unashamed stack of tortillas loaded with beans, salsa and gooey cheese and the cheeky pork scratchings - the perfect partner with a cold Cerveza. Here you’re spoiled for sharing plates, tacos and sides ranging from bean and avocado leaf quesadillas; Loch Duart Salmon Tartare tostadas; grilled baby gem and crab with fresh lime and buttermilk dressing: tamarind-glazed pork ribs and kohlrabi slaw. The ‘big plates’ menu is amped up with Grilled Chicken Breast and Roast Pepper with Green Herb Mole and Market Planks designed to get your fingers sticky with Chargrilled Cauliflower and Pomegranate Seeds and Slowcooked Beef Chin. The classic ‘Wahaca Feasts’ are the fall back for those who just can’t decide. Squeeze room for the fantastic dessert from fudgey brownies with Dulce de Leche to Black Coconut Ice Cream and Fried Bunenlos. The friendly, open staff are hungry for your feedback - successful new dishes may roll out across the Wahaca family. If you’re a Wahaca disciple, you’ll rejoice and the surprising menu, if you’re new - you’re in for a treat.

    18 december 2017 by becky
  • camino

    london: camino

    Shoreditch is now home to the latest in the Camino clan of Spanish-inspired eateries. This particular site is inspired by the Castile y León region of Northern Spain. Specialising in Tapas, the menu reads like, ‘I’ll have one of everything please!’. Baring all the favoured hallmarks of Spanish cuisine, here plump Manzanilla Olives (salt) rub shoulders with padron peppers, croquettes, tortilla de patatas, churros, manchego and serrrano. Old favourites are treated with extra finesse - think runny-room-temperature Clarence Court Old Cotswold Legbar eggs and Iberian ham from acorn-foraging-pigs roaming 14km a day. Graze across fish, meat, seafood, vegetables and sweet treats. Alongside the classics, select from tequila-cured sea trout and mackerel escabeche in Catalunian Chardonnay vinegar; duck breast in Oloroso sherry sauce and endive salad with clementine and honey. Don’t by-pass the excellent cheese platter offering a taster of five artisan creations. Team it with a selection from the Charcuteria of course and finish off with a juicy dessert wine, ports and brandies. ‘Grazing’ is key and this is a place to indulge in as many dishes as you can manage.

    18 december 2017 by becky
  • izakaya

    munich: izakaya

    few have banked on the japanese-peruvian food trend with such pizzazz as izakaya [12.2017].

    07 december 2017 by andreas
  • green brothers

    tokyo: green brothers

    build your own salads with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options. makes a change from the ubiquitous ramen joints.

    03 december 2017 by kirsty
  • villa mama's

    london: villa mama's

    This has been a year for exploring new cuisines from the Caspian to the Levantine. Now set your culinary compass to the Gulf region of Bahrain where London is fortunate enough to play host to the first branch of a Bahraini institution, Villa Mama’s. Opened just in time for the cold season, here you’ll enjoy heart-warming, tummy-filling ‘home style’ dishes from Bahrain and Persia. Whilst some of the menu items may initially sound familiar (hummus and kofta?) prepare yourself for some thrilling new flavour combinations. Warm up with some of the national ‘bread’ - a thin and crisp khubus served plain or with an addictive salty za’atar spread. For starters you could opt for the ‘famous’ aubergine stack layered with caramelised onions, walnuts and tangy whey sauce; lamb kofta with creamed potato and cherry molasses or perhaps vine leaves with tomatoes and lemon. You’ll soon identify the deeply savoury x sparkly sweet as something as a culinary theme. On to the main event and you’re in for steaming hot bowls of comfort food. Thinking slow cooked seasonal vegetable stew with khubus dumpings; braised lamb shank with rosemary and vermicelli and saffron rice cakes layered with chicken, pine nuts and barberries amongst others. Finish off with saffron ice cream with candy floss and pistachios or a Bahraini creme caramel. A brilliant chance to try a new cuisine to the London circuit, the softly illuminated table would make the perfect romantic date for two or cosy catch up with friends.

    26 november 2017 by becky
  • oxalis

    london: oxalis

    Weave through the streets of Soho until you stumble upon The Sun & Canton - a smartened up but snuggly English Pub in the heart of the city. Here you’ll find Oxalis in residence, the passion project of chef duo Nick and Max. Combining Nick’s training in French fine dining and Max’s penchant for robust, heartier dishes you wind up with the best of both. Start with the snack menu of moreish nibbles - delicious chilli cauliflower, the addictive parelles or the cheekier short rib poutine (a nod to Nick’s Canadian heritage). The ‘mains’ are plates in your choice of small or more sizeable. Dishes range from an elegantly earthy sunchoke and truffle risotto to grouse with beef dripping toast and a lighter-touch version of the traditional English cottage pie. Find room for pudding whether its the perfectly pitched cheesecake or the devilishly rich chocolate-cherry-amaretto mouse. If you’re grabbing a bite during the day there’s a no-fuss menu of three choices. The Oxalis residence is perfectly timed. What with the soft glow of the candelabras and the welcoming comfy booths, this is a top pick to while away a cosy and/or romantic winter night. (Dinner is not served Thursday's and Friday’s and the restaurant is closed Sunday).

    10 november 2017 by becky
  • minnow

    london: minnow

    a couple blocks from the station, you’ll happen upon a charming ‘village’ eatery overlooking clapham common. minnow is an elegantly dressed affair with a simple but stylish decor, erring on the side of parisienne. the understated environment paves the way for the seasonal, ingredient-led menu. it’s a well-crafted balance of meat, sea and vegetables and hard to steer wrong, no matter your choice of plates. think scallops-bacon-seaweed, rare beef and onions, and grilled plaice with caper butter. In terms of plant based options, herbivores are spoiled whether it’s the caramelised basted cauliflower, sweet beets and tangy goat cheese, honey roast pumpkin or the heavenly salt-baked celeriac with parsley roots. plates are very generously served showcasing the abundance of the produce - no edible-garnishes-on-a-plate here. little touches make for a memorable experience - each drink on the house cocktail menu for example, is partnered with a coaster relaying details of a local story. weekends offer an unfussy brunch set and a good and proper english sunday roast.

    10 november 2017 by becky
  • to the bone

    berlin: to the bone

    a dining boudoir extraordinaire.

    08 november 2017 by andreas