reviews

  • goode & wright

    london: goode & wright

    finding a brilliant eatery on portobello road amongst the tourist traps or the overpriced dining rooms can be tricky. goode & wright is a hidden gem [no longer!] offering a tightly edited, flavourful menu of generously sized small plates. the ‘cuisine’ defies categorisation, a bricolage of international influences, beautifully plated ‘fine-dining’ style. here, there’s a surprise on every plate. start off nibbling the melt-in-your-mouth seaweed crisps with gherkin dip, chicken liver parfait with madeira jelly and the yoghurt bread with smoked butter. the vegetarian options make heroes of humble veggies - aubergine is loving coated in chimichurri with a savoury romesco sauce, creamy polenta is generously piled with wild mushrooms with hidden drops of garlic puree, a tangy beetroot gazpacho conceals nuggets of pistachio brittle and salty feta. on the meatier end of the spectrum, roasted quail sits alongside red cabbage, kale and cassava crisps, flakey flamed salmon is spiked with wasabi potato salad and samphire, mackerel is enlivened with persian lemon dressing - it’s a world tour in one sitting. for pudding - we dare you to try the dark chocolate guinness cake with marmite chantilly cream and grey ice cream- it’s scrumptious. for your tipple of choice - we double dare you to try the old school lambrusco - it goes a little too well. and that’s just the small plates menu, they also serve up a fine brunch and a bottomless sunday roast - a must visit in portobello.

    08 may 2017 by becky
  • wedge issue pizza + beer

    london: wedge issue pizza + beer

    london has no shortage of ‘concept’ pizzerias but sometimes you just want your pie done good and done right. cue ‘wedge issue pizza + beer’ - the passion project of canadian-born, london-made couple martha and darren who have brought a slice of laid back pacific west-coast dining to east london. there is something for everyone on the menu as the proprietors have obligingly created an impressive list of vegetarian, vegan, gluten free options that don’t feel like an afterthought. in acknowledgement of their londonite sentiment, all but one pizza is named after a place in the city. you’ve got the charlton with feta, pesto, spinach; smithfield meat market with pepperoni, chorizo and ham, the soho with spicy ‘nudja sausage and sweet peppers. the ‘liberty of norton folgate’ is a veggie delight of butternut squash, feta, rocket, mushrooms and thyme. the ‘shoreditch’ stars gorgonzola, mozzarella, ricotta with shavings of vegetarian parmesan. the ‘maribel’ features spicy vegan chorizo and vegan pizza cheese. what’s more, the pizza dough is raised slowly over three days before being cooked quick as a flash on a wicked high heat, meaning you can scoff a 12 inch down with no bloat. the beer menu is exceptional - a fantasy list of hand picked craft-brews hailing from all four corners of greater london - urban apple cider, sweet hiver honey beer, zingy rhubarb pale ale, spiced chilli porter, darjeeling mango fruit beer, fiery ginger beer and ruby rye. from the moment you enter the doors you can’t help but feel you’re being welcomed into martha and darren’s extended front room - a delightful hidden gem.

    08 may 2017 by becky
  • pizza pilgrims shoreditch

    london: pizza pilgrims shoreditch

    james and thom’s pizza venture makes the pilgrimage to shoreditch and bears new gifts. the backbone of the menu are the mega napoli pizzas, proved slow and cooked fast creating that light, chewy moreishness. white pizzas feature heavily with winning combos such as fennel sausage - broccoli - chilli; gorgonzola and courgette; creamed spinach - wild garlic - nutmeg - egg yolk, sitting alongside the more red-based classics. buddy up with a side of aubergine parmigiana and the delicious buffalo mozzarella with smoked tomatoes (fresh from italia every week). make sure you order all three dips for those chunky crusts - pesto aioli, gorgonzola and garlic, smoked chilli jam mascarpone. save a belly gap for the epic chocolate-bar calzones. each month there are three types of candy bar to choose from - think reese’s peanut buttercups, mars bars and kinder buenos - melting inside a bready enclosure. adding to the fun, there’s also prosciutto pops, tiramisu cups and a byob policy. the most fun you can have at a pizzeria in london? we think so!

    15 april 2017 by becky
  • attarine

    jakarta: attarine

    the latest venue of the popular potato head group adds another new laid-back dining experience to south jakarta [04.2017].

    08 april 2017 by andreas
  • radio alice

    london: radio alice

    whilst london suffers no pizzeria shortage, you’re unlikely to find a take on pizza like this anywhere else in the city. named ‘radio alice’ after a pirate radio station that once broadcasted from a two-room attic in the centre of bologna, bologna’s own pirates of pizza, mateo and salvatore aloe, have rethought every aspect of the process to create a new sensory experience for diners. for a start everything is organic and either handmade, or hand-picked from painstakingly researched italian suppliers and markets. the team take ingredients very seriously and passionately and your waiter will have a story to tell about the provenance and usp of nearly any given ingredient. the fermented base is ultra-light meaning you can scoff the lot without that uncomfortable dough-bloat. now for the crazy bit...toppings are radically added after the base is cooked and pre-sliced. but fear not, this allows those ingredients to really sing whether it’s the beetroot puree - leeks - olives combo, the baked potato - pancetta - asiado - fiordilatte mix or pork-tomato - pamigiano - lemon thyme. sidekick your pizza with simple side plates of more of those delicious ingredients - burrata, proscuitto di parma, mortadella, speck. definitely pair your food with one of the biodynamic wine. plus if you’re intrigued to take the experience home, london-locals can also book yourself in for a pizza masterclass with head chef matteo aloe.

    06 april 2017 by becky
  • pujol

    mexico city: pujol

    the swankiest diner in town has just reinvented itself [03.2017].

    21 march 2017 by andreas
  • rudie’s

    london: rudie’s

    ‘jamaican cooking’ can be all too often reduced down to crowd-pleaser stereotypes with a formula of jerk chicken + sidekick rice and beans + some kind of rum punch. rudie’s however opts for inspiration over imitation, with a refreshing, and very ‘london’ take on island cuisine. for a start, there’s a series of small plates blending unusual, but effective combinations. think spiced burrata with sprouting broccoli and candied ginger; calamari in jerk-seasoned polenta, mushroom gratin; avocado and jackfruit salad. of course - jerk, patties and stew do make an appearance, but they’re offered a twist with ingredients like coriander pesto, kale coconut rundown and smoked cheddar. what’s more, the ‘fiyah’ is dialled down for those who don’t favour the heat. we’d highly recommend the brunch menu, for an original take on london’s favourite mealtime. the ‘jah love’ take on the ‘full english’ is a vegetarian feast of buttery ackee, baked butter beans, sauteed calaloo, green bananas and dumplings. the smoothies are excellent whilst the story of jamaica’s history is told through a menu of signature cocktail recipes from the early arawak indians, to the rastafarian movement to the arrival of the brits - with rum at the heart of course.

    18 march 2017 by becky
  • firedog

    london: firedog

    in a city where ‘brunch’ is becoming as institutionalised as it is with neighbours in the antipodes and the states, it was only a matter of time until we began to see destinations dedicated to this hallowed, hybrid mealtime. aligning with the anti-avo brigade, firedog takes its cues from the agean region (greco-turkish to you and me) to bring a refreshing offering to the table. whilst the main menu offers numerous great options, we suggest you make a b-line for the star offering, the epic breakfast meze of no less than 14 sharing plates. slather your bread basket in moreish natural honeycomb, team chilli eggs with feta-esque lor cheese with walnuts and thyme. candied pumpkins with hung yoghurt showdown with wood-roasted tahini and caroub molasses. you’ll mmm you’re way through every plate as you play ‘twister’ across the table with your dining partner. and that’s just the food. if the menu isn’t fresh air enough, the decor certainly is, adorned with comic book hero-esque frescoes of mythical aegean gods and distinctive flashes of neon, with a pumping old-skool hip hop soundtrack. a tonne of fun, points for effort in a breakfasting scene of homogeneity.

    12 march 2017 by becky
  • exmouth market grind

    london: exmouth market grind

    the ‘grind’ takeover shows no sign of stopping, with the opening of a prime-time spot on london’s exmouth market. with beautiful, dual-aspect windows the espresso bar / cocktail haunt / restaurant boasts a gorgeous backdrop. being first and foremost, a coffee specialist, needless to say the breakfast/brunch game is strong. think porridge with blood orange, roast apple and streusel; sprout panzanella with poached egg and goats cheese; pork with polenta, apricots and onion and a moreish wild mushroom hash with harissa. the range of drinks on offer is pretty remarkable from the mandatory espresso martini to the indulgent hot flat white russian, to an array of coffees and the rather instagrammable traffic light lattes - tumeric, matcha, beetroot. rounding up with the hot apple crumble sundae should be compulsory. exmouth market grind has a continental feel you can’t quite put your finger on but it somehow feels acceptable to order a cocktail in the morning or a coffee after-dark.

    10 march 2017 by becky
  • de bajes

    amsterdam: de bajes

    this all-day diner pairs urban art with quality comfort food and matching drinks [02.2017]

    27 february 2017 by andreas