by far one of the most inspiring collections of the season, alexandre plokhov a/w 2012 was influenced by andrew eldritch and his eponymous band, the sisters of mercy. plokhov has always challenged established notions of traditional menswear, but like his musical muse, this has never stopped the designer from creating beautifully crafted, stark embodiments which tend to defy immediate categorization. his collections inhabit an intellectual and cultural arena lending to influences from historic characters like the renaissance femme fatal lucrezia borgia and the legendary musician leonard cohen. this season we see no departure from the ethereal and transcendant space his creations seem to occupy.
silhouettes were an advanced excursion in assymetry concocted from leather, lambskin, wool, angora, cashmere, cotton twill and cold dyed jersey. colors were a pallette of mute greys and contrasting blacks with similarly toned graphic knits. key looks included meticulously tailored jackets and coats in sharp angular formations, belted zip front jumpsuits and folded front drop crotch trousers. skew cut leathers, leggings and skirts appeared in both slim and voluminous fits, layered with immaculate shirting, distinctive knits, fur, vests and striking white bronze jewelry. the soundtrack of the show, masterfully produced by scott mou, was a howling montage of