farm-to-table dining is a global trend, but here in copenhagen they've taken it to a whole new level – and we mean that literally. it all started last year with the launch of østergro, a full-fledged farm smack in the middle of the city's østerbro neighbourhood. and it's not just any farm, but situated on the rooftop of a modern office building. at 600 sqm. [6,458 sq.ft.] it's a fairly sizeable operation, and supplies the local community with a wide variety of organically grown vegetables. mind you, it's even home to twelve chickens and four bee families. as of this summer season the østergro farm has stepped up the game by opening a seasonal gourmet restaurant on the premises.
aptly named stedsans på østergro – stedsans means 'sense of direction' in danish – the cutesy diner is accommodated in a greenthouse that sits pretty amidst rows and rows of vegetables that'll end up on your very plate. if you think this is some urban hippie affair, think again. chef flemming schiøtt hansen has honed his skills at a variety of establishments across copenhagen and his wife and co-founder mette helbæk is a well-known food writer, and both aim to deliver an unusual culinary bravado on this rooftop. each day six different italian-style dishes are served on large plates that are sent around guests. these contain the season's best produce, fresh from the farm and nature.
and this chef knows what's good: asparagus with hand-peeled shrimp, lemon and smoked cheese, or grilled carrots, seasoned lightly with good quality olive oil, followed by a braised piece of organic beef, and for dessert strawberries with cream. in short, stedsans på østergro is a place where flavours are kept pure and simple. the duo's particular culinary approach also affects the restaurant's operations. there's hardly any garbage because the compost heap is right behind the kitchen and no tin cans are used. the chicken eat all the food scraps and both the dishwasher and the cleaning routines use probiotic water.
dinner at stedsans på østergro is an elaborate feast which consists of five or six courses, and the concoctions are all served as shared food. you'll be seated accordingly at an elongated, beautifully set dinner table inside the cozy greenhouse. you'll have to book and pay in advance – by the way, it's dkk 695 per person for the first seating with five courses starting at 5.30pm, and dkk 845 for the second seating with six courses starting at 8.15pm, and a wine or juice menu is included – and the amount can't be refunded when cancelled [open until end of september]. location: æbeløgade 4, third floor [østerbro].